Kitchen Confidential

(page 8 of 21)

Photo by Marc Thomas Kallweit

Honey-Roasted BBQ Pork with Green Beans

Frank Fat’s

When Frank Fat opened his legendary Capitol haunt in 1939, his restaurant’s offerings featured future classics like its famous honey walnut prawns and banana cream pie, but also dishes that reflected the foods that Chinese immigrants moving to California were cooking in the early 20th century.

One such dish was the honey-roasted barbecue pork with green beans, an original menu item that didn’t survive the restaurant makeover in 1984, but is still available to those who know to ask for it.

Frank’s grandson Kevin Fat, who serves as vice president of the Fat Family Restaurant Group, says the entrée—which pairs the sweet and savory honey-roasted barbecue pork with wok-fried legumes in a garlicky sauce—is one of his personal favorites. “It’s a delicious dish that I can eat all the time,” he says.

He’s not its only loyalist. Gov. Jerry Brown has also been known to regularly order the classic dish, along with Fat’s erstwhile egg foo young (a deep-fried omelet with sprouts, peas and carrots smothered in gravy). And Kevin raves about yet another under-the-radar immigrant plate from the very first menu: the char siu don, a mix of scrambled eggs, Chinese barbecue pork, peas and onions.

Sometimes you can’t improve on the original. $16. 806 L St. 916-442-7092.

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