True to its name, this storied downtown eatery—which recently relocated a block away to a much larger space on the ground floor of the Park Tower building—serves up an inventive yet unpretentious menu of soups and sandwiches for downtown’s hungry lunchtime crowds. Chef Edward Stoddard—a New York native who took over this downtown cafe in 2010 from celebrated French chef Daniel Pont—makes all of his rotating daily soups from scratch, including the classic French onion (a robust blend of chicken and veal stocks, 20 onions and a bottle of sherry) and seasonal additions like this summer’s watermelon gazpacho. The sandwiches range from rich (duck confit with caramelized onions and brie) to light (a veggie sando with goat cheese and house-made nut-free pesto).