This pocket-sized 38-seat midtown restaurant has been serving impossibly fresh sushi since it opened its red door in 2013. Co-owned by head chef Lou Valente—the cheerful guy behind the bar wearing an easy grin and a baseball cap (typically Giants or Phillies, a nod to Valente’s hometown), whose background includes stints at sushi spots Zen Sushi and the erstwhile Taka’s—the casual neighborhood joint emits an unfussy, homey vibe with light wood chairs and an open kitchen lined with Edison bulb pendant lamps, which doles out inventive sushi dishes like the Mt. Fuji, an adventurous roll named after Japan’s highest mountain that’s stuffed with spicy tuna and tempura asparagus and layered with salmon, avocado, snow crab and masago, underneath a heaping pile of crispy tempura flakes, or the Irishman with tempura yams, avocado, seared tuna and fried Brussels sprouts and drizzled with Valente’s signature “L-train sauce,” a sweet, garlicky, ginger-infused soy sauce. Start with the “Seafood Nachos,” a light and flavorful take on the bar-food favorite comprising fried wontons topped with smashed avocado and a chef’s choice of spicy seafood for a satisfying pre-roll snack.