The idea of exciting comfort food may sound like an oxymoron, but this restaurant helmed by chef Deneb Williams (formerly of The Firehouse) and his sommelier wife, Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou (formerly of Ella), in a charming Art Deco building in North Sacramento amply demonstrates that culinary solace can be more like cashmere and less like flannel. The jumbo gulf shrimp and grits dish is a standout, as is the barbecue combo plate, which is as pretty as any sushi platter and includes sous vide chicken, tender pork ribs, house-made sausage and a brisket so cleverly rubbed and roasted you won’t want to obscure the pungent, aromatic char with sauce. This is barbecue filtered through a fine dining lens, a refined plate of food that refreshes the down-home concept without losing its essential humility. Thursday is dollar rib night, and the fully enclosed, dog-friendly back patio is the perfect space to while away a warm evening.