The Great Sacramento Beer Boom of 2018

(page 9 of 11)

Photo by Ryan Donahue

Urban Roots

If you’re one of the region’s new crop of urban farmers in spiffy roll-cuffed jeans—or just dress like one on the weekends—you know there’s nothing more quenching after a hard day than a long pull on a rustic saison, a mellow farmhouse ale that’s typically unfiltered and often brewed with native ingredients and wild yeasts. This is the stuff vintners in Napa traditionally love to down at the end of a long, hot harvest session.

Ten years ago, brewmasters chasing ever-higher IBUs only occasionally bothered to throw together a small batch of the style, but that’s when Rob Archie, owner of Curtis Park’s Pangaea Bier Cafe, and Peter Hoey, former head brewer for Sacramento Brewing Company, bonded over their love of the overlooked varietal. And this past May, the longtime beer buddies opened Urban Roots Brewing & Smokehouse, resplendent with earthy saisons that happen to pair perfectly with the heaps of succulent, charred ribs, brisket and turkey and authentic Southern sides (think sweet yams and collard greens) that pour out of the smokehouse on aluminum trays.

The heart of this downtown indoor-outdoor biergarten is an expansive 3,300-square-foot patio that features rows of farm tables beneath an eye-grabbing I Spy-esque mural by local graphic designer Lily Therens. Not sure you’re a farmhand manqué? Hoey keeps a wide array of styles on tap, from the malty Luna de Miel (a Mexican amber lager that Hoey first brewed for his 2007 wedding) to the Like Riding a Bike IPA, which earned a gold medal at this year’s California State Fair. According to Hoey, the hottest variety in beer these days is variety itself. “People don’t walk into a bar and ask for their favorite beer anymore,” he says. “They walk in and ask for what’s new.” 1322 V St. 916-706-3741. —J.R.

Photo by Ryan Donahue

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