In a city where French food is most often found as exotic menu one-offs amid a tide of New American cuisine, this newest spot by Aziz Bellarbi-Salah, who co-owns Aïoli Bodega Española in midtown, goes all-in with a full spectrum of Gallic fare, from escargots to an excellent quiche Lorraine. Chef Christophe Cornet, formerly the private chef for the Maloof family, oversees a menu that generally favors poultry, fish and vegetables over French gastronomy’s pillars of red meat, yielding dishes like the salade Nicoise with green beans, potatoes, hard-boiled egg and seared tuna, and the house-cured salmon that’s served with an egg and rye toast and topped with crème fraîche. Meanwhile, French traditionalists can indulge in classics such as steak frites and steak tartare with quail egg and briny capers. The space—once home to The Broiler—exudes urban elegance, with bow-tied servers hustling around the jaw-dropping cast pewter bar at its heart. Bon appetit!