Everything about Pizza Rock—from the loud hair-band sounds to the 900-degree oven, from the giant truck mounted over the bar to the countless styles of pizza on the expansive menu—bespeaks a rock-and-roll level of excess. Yet somehow, this mashup of tattoo culture and wood-fired pizza tradition works, thanks mainly to the genius pizza stylings of world pizza champ Tony Gemignani. All those pizzas aren’t on the menu just for the sake of having a lot of them; they’re all serious efforts, distinct, different and extremely high quality, whether you’re sinking your teeth into the fluffy crust of the Sicilian, splitting a huge rectangle Romana (with its three different sections—a pizza version of appetizer, entrée and dessert) with a gang, or hoarding one of the restaurant’s just 73 Margheritas (the Naples-style, tomato-and-basil-only, super-simple pizza that made Gemignani’s name) a day all for yourself. The whole experience has to be seen—and heard and tasted—to be believed.