Chef-owner Slavic Lisagor brings a taste of his native Moldova to this destination-worthy bistro housed in a rustic Gold Rush-era inn, with an emphasis on bright, tart and fruity flavors and local ingredients. Starters like the adventuresome sea buckthorn berries and burrata or wintry green house salad with colorful shaved root vegetables from Upcountry Farms in the Sierra foothills give way to hearty entrées, such as a juicy, crusty pork schnitzel served with a complexly layered sweet and sour red sauce made with garlic and fermented red pepper and jalapeño, or a slab of rib eye draped in rosemary-spiked black currant sauce. But we’d make the drive to Sloughhouse just to settle in with a glass of Amador County zinfandel and slather freshly churned butter on Lisagor’s sourdough bread rolls—fragrant, crystalline-crusted, yeasty, chewy lobes of glutenous magic.