Café Vinoteca looks like a simple, sunny neighborhood Italian bistro. But it’s sneaky good, and the bustling dining room is a giveaway that this is destination dining and a reminder that great restaurants can pop up anywhere. The food is lively and original, with enough twists for foodies without scaring the folks who think they’re in that neighborhood joint. The menu changes with the seasons, but if you’re getting pasta—and there’s a build-your-own option—go for the rich and delicate Bolognese. The gnocchi changes regularly, too, though it’s always incredibly fluffy, and has ranged from roasted chicken and pesto to New York strip with gorgonzola. They have an equally nimble touch with meat and fish. The veal scaloppine is dripping with flavor, and the pan-roasted salmon is light, moist and fresh. Then there are Timpano Thursdays in the last week of every month, when they offer the massive—and gleefully adventurous—pasta with layers of béchamel, marinara, meatballs, eggs, veggies and more.