This venture from the group behind the acclaimed neighboring vegetarian restaurant Mother repurposes 7,600 square feet beneath the Crest Theatre as a singular destination for meat lovers, beer geeks, oenophiles, cocktail mavens and every type in between. Chef and co-owner Michael Thiemann’s self-described “American carvery” offers comforting carnivorous dishes like a double-patty burger with mortadella (which won the 2017 Sacramento Burger Battle); organic roasted chicken guajillo-peanut mole accompanied by blue masa tortillas and tomato corn relish; and beef cheek stroganoff. Vegetarians will love the baked artichoke dip and seasonal salads. As you descend down Empress’ barely lit stairway entrance (watch your step) and into the barrel-vaulted, brick-ceilinged space, the atmosphere evokes a subterranean speakeasy, and its creative bar program plays the part nicely.