This polished eatery—entrenched at the former site of the downtown institution 4th Street Grille—has carved out a thriving neighborhood niche since opening in fall 2013. The formula is simple: Reinstate 4th Street’s familiar faces (in this case, former bartenders/new owners Matt Sin and Krissy White, and executive chef Jeramie Smith) and deliver gently upscaled American eats to growing numbers of lunch and dinner regulars—whose ranks you may join after trying gems like Smith’s flatbreads (like the light, tangy margherita with Roma tomatoes, marinara sauce and basil), the slow-roasted French dip (switched up with a sweet onion spread and provolone on a pillowy-fresh ciabatta roll), and the world-beating Mary’s skin-on chicken breast, which is grilled to a toothsome golden-brown and accompanied by angel hair pasta, prosciutto, oven-roasted tomatoes and sage pan sauce. Kick off any visit with a starter of Foundation’s French fries—crisp, slender, shareable beauties that arrive piping hot and set the table for a meal as surprising and diverse as the crowd around you.