Kupros in midtown started life as a gastropub with quirky, modernist food, then morphed into a more traditional restaurant—with a very cool bar. And if the food moved off the culinary edge, what hasn’t changed is that Kupros seems to be two establishments—the jovial bar downstairs and the Victorian-like dining room upstairs—and both are great spaces. The large bar has a bright, dazzling stained-glass dome and midtown’s sense of ease, and the upstairs is full of nooks and alcoves with a quiet elegance that feels like 1910, which is when the graceful Craftsman-style structure was built. Plus there’s a second-story outdoor deck. Where both floors come together is the food. It’s the smaller plates that stand out, including the poutine with braised beef gravy, but more familiar bar offerings resonate, too, like fish tacos with a deftly charred tortilla that adds some earth and smoke, the tangy fried (but not over-fried) pickles, and a mac and cheese that manages to be both hearty and light.