The corner of 28th and N has long belonged to Randy Paragary, the sans pareil statesman of the city’s drinking and dining scene. But after a $1 million makeover in 2015, it’s hard to recognize this eponymous place from the old-school favorite it used to be (except for the wood-fired pizza oven, which remains untouched). The new Paragary’s is a chic Napa-esque bistro with encaustic concrete floors, tall ceilings and a wall of folding glass doors that open to one of the best patios in town. The California-French menu dishes up sophisticated plates, like a Duroc pork chop with soubise (a butter sauce with onion purée) and nectarine mostarda. The satisfying brunch list features belly-fillers like a buttermilk biscuit Benedict with smoked ham. And don’t miss the craft cocktails (the vinegar-based shrubs are especially worthy of your attention), which are expertly blended and served in old-fashioned stemware.