Dumpling devotees—including Kru’s sushi master Billy Ngo—congregate en masse at this hole-in-the-wall hot spot in Elk Grove, where bamboo steamers filled with the house specialty, pork soup dumplings, are stacked on every table, and disputes over the right way to eat them are just common dinner conversation. (Our four-step method: 1. Place the dumpling in a soup spoon. 2. Pierce the dough to cool the hot broth. 3. Slurp the savory liquid. 4. Dip the dumpling in the vinegary ginger sauce and eat.) Other dumplings, such as the impossibly thin-skinned wontons in chili oil or the satisfyingly doughy pan-fried pork soup buns, are more straightforward—chopsticks will do. And because man cannot live on dumplings alone, don’t skip the Hong Kong-style chow mein (stir-fried shrimp or other meat and vegetables atop a tangle of crunchy noodles) or the wok-tossed green beans—crisp and garlicky, they’re highly addictive, just like everything else here.