Executive chef Kelly McCown takes dining out to theatrical new heights with these demonstration dinners, a single-seating four-hour gustatory tour. The ever-changing, seasonally focused offerings combine inventive flavors with familiar comforts. McCown, formerly of Ella Dining Room & Bar, dazzles with such innovative fare as ahi tuna and yellowtail tartare, egg yolk and Perigord truffle raviolo, Maine lobster pot pie, boeuf Bourgignon and upside-down Meyer lemon mascarpone cheesecake (from the January menu). With bottles numbering in the thousands, the wine cellar is every bit as serious as the food. Reservations well in advance are a must. Dinner is prix-fixe at $135 per person; a flight of wines is an additional $85.