Chef-owner Rick Mahan’s California Mediterranean restaurant The Waterboy is to dining what a string of pearls is to jewelry: a timeless classic that’s suitable for simple and special occasions alike. White tablecloths, woven wood chairs and glass walls create a light, airy dining area. The intimate scale and warm color palettes are counterbalanced by well-placed modern notes like exposed ducts and prominent metallic signage (sculpted by Sacramento’s own Gerald Walburg). The bill of fare changes monthly, but count on offerings like scallops, sweetbreads or a daily fish special to grace the simple, enticing menu that ranges from southern French to northern Italian. Portions are modest, but the flavors loom large.